Scads of new inventory including several stunning pairs of 50’s Herbert Levine pumps, a Patullo Jo Copeland dress, a Berin Stark dress, and more coming to Ages A Go Go this week. Get 20% off your entire purchase through March 7th with the coupon code DRESSTORY20. And as always, shipping is free when you shop at Ages A Go Go.
By: Marge Leyden of Love Train Vintage
This is the first in a 3 part series on the sweater maven extraordinaire, Helen Bond Carruthers. This name for vintage sellers and aficionados brings to mind breathtakingly beautiful sweaters in all manners of colors, needlework and appliqué work.
We have had the pleasure of interviewing Mrs. Carruthers’ grand niece, Jenifer Klier, whom is embarking on an entrepreneurial endeavor of her own. Jenifer has been a registered nurse for 24 years working mostly in Labor and Delivery. She has recently become a certified legal nurse consultant (assisting attorneys to win their cases) and is working hard to get her business off the ground. Certainly the apple did not fall far from the tree as Jenifer states of her grand aunt, Mrs. Carruthers, “She was an incredibly talented and dynamic woman, who made a name for herself in the days before it was “acceptable” for women to do that, and I still miss her, even though I am almost fifty years old. She was an extraordinary influence on my life in many ways.”
To start us out Jenifer has kindly provided us a little background information about her family. Some questions can’t be answered as the people who could answer them are no longer living, however, I do believe there will be valuable information provided that has not been discussed before.
Jenifer told us, “Helen was actually my grand-aunt (my father’s father’s sister) and the oldest of four children. The only one of these four siblings to have children of their own was my grandfather (James Edward Bond or “Jim Ed”), and he only had one child (James Edward Bond, Jr.—my father, and no, I am not kidding about the name). My dad is, literally an entire generation all by himself! So Helen, whom I always called “Auntie,” never had any children of her own, but had three great-nieces (me and my sisters!), upon whom she doted, spoiled and helped raise.”
Another point that Jenifer made was, “You need to understand that Auntie passed away when I was about twelve years old (and I am the oldest of the three of us). So, although we spent a large part of our time with her and have lots of memories, they are mostly from a child’s point of view. That said, I can tell you that I remember every step of the process by which her sweaters were made, but failed to appreciate it at the time it was going on. I had no idea of their popularity—then or now, until very recently. Of course a lot of local people had them, but I thought it was just because they were close, were her friends or more likely, didn’t really think much about it at all. I certainly didn’t know that celebrities were wearing them! I grew up in the sixties and seventies, when material possessions were scorned and so were shoes, and I most certainly wouldn’t have been caught dead in one of those sweaters! My mother had a few, but hardly ever wore them, and I never owned one until Auntie’s last remaining sibling (my Aunt Jessie) died and my sisters and I divided what was left. I don’t think I even imagined ever wearing one; we just couldn’t part with them for sentimental reasons. However, styles and tastes change (thank goodness!) and I have actually started to wear them now and then and always get many complements and am surprised at how many people know exactly what they are! There was even a local showing of many of her sweaters about a year ago, which was highly advertised and that I managed to miss, if you can believe it! (I was working twelve-hour night shifts at a hospital at the time; I’m an RN).”
Of course we are closing this installment with a beautiful sweater created by Helen Bond Carruthers just to whet your appetite for more information on this inspirational designer of wearable art. This particular sweater photograph is provided by Lizzie Bramlet, the author of the blog “The Vintage Traveler.”
Photo courtesy of Lizzy Bramlett of http://www.fuzzylizzie.bravejournal.com
All other photographs that are featured in this blog series are owned by the Carruthers family members. Check back often as we provide more never before known information about Ms. Carruthers’ work.
Bombshell Frocks Vintage was created by Tori Ann Gulisano, a Southwest Florida who has been collecting and dealing in top quality and designer vintage clothing and accessories on eBay since 1999.
Some of my fabulous finds have been an exquisite 1930’s gown that I sold on eBay in January of 2004; the sale of this gown was featured in an article in The Christian Science Magazine.
Another fabulous find was a Pucci two piece bathing suit with the rare gondola print; it was featured in a museum exhibit about Emilio Pucci.
About 6 years ago I sold a rare Sorelle Fontana Black Velvet Full Skirt Party Dress to an avid Ava Gardner collector, Sorelle Fontana’s best client was Ava Gardner, they designed both her private and professional wardrobes and my buyer swears the dress he bought was once owned by Ava Gardner, I’ll never know for sure but I was happy with the sale.
Other rare designer finds sold, a 1950s Valentina Coat, Valentina Sanina Schlee was a she and of Russian origin, and was widely known by her first name, whose
business lasted from the late 1920’s up to 1957. Valentina dressed everyone from Pola Negri to Greta Garbo in her gracious linear designs.
My current favorite piece is this INCREDIBLE Vintage 50s Sorelle Fontana Dress, this is a label that is not easily found but I have managed to do so after 6 years and it’s a beauty! This one has 3 layers consisting of Black Silk Taffeta, Black Tulle and a Gorgeous overlay of Black Chantilly Lace, it has an illusion scalloped neckline with a fitted strapless under-bust, and is extremely well constructed with both hand and machine stitching as all Sorelle Fontana Dresses were.
Sorelle Fontana Lace Dress Currently available on ebay. Want to win a $15 Gift Card to Bombshell Frocks? Leave a short story inspired by this Sorelle Fontana in the comments. Tori will pick the finalists next week, winner will be decided by a reader poll.
The House of Fontana is an Italian Couture House of Fashion that came to be when 3 Italian Sisters opened their atelier at the start of the Second World War.
The Sorelle Fontana was the first to feel the need to give fashion in Italy a look of its own, freeing it from foreign influence.
In 1951 they went to the United States where their success was immediate. Soon their fashion was recognized in Europe, Japan, Africa and Asia.
Among their many famous customers were Donna Marella Agnelli, Princess Grace of Monaco, Margaret Truman, Jacqueline Kennedy, and the Princesses Savoia. The Sorelle Fontana has also dressed famous stars such as Ava Gardner, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Kim Novak, Barbara Stanwyck and many more.
Their best client was Ava Gardner, and they designed both her private and professional wardrobes, most notably “The Barefoot Contessa.”
Want to win a $15 Gift Card to Bombshell Frocks? Leave a short story inspired by this Sorelle Fontana in the comments. Tori will pick the finalists next week, winner will be decided by a reader poll.
by: Marge Leyden of Love Train Vintage
Marge: Was your father always interested in the family business?
Susan: In 1948 my grandmother Gertrude Goldworm “Mama Gertie” started the Goldworm Knitwear Company. In these early years, production was for knit scarves, shawls, and throws. My dad was 2 years old.
My father graduated from New York University in 1947 and joined the company. As the story goes, he was quite influenced by the family business and after looking at t-shirts came up with the idea of designing knit dresses. The first dress designed was very simple very clean….and the idea came about from a basic round collar T-shirt. My dad traveled to Italy and joined forces with the Dragone family and their small knitwear factory in Milan. In no time, more clean cut, clutter free dresses were produced, a polo dress and the scoop neck, v-neck etc – and the Goldworm knit dress business began to take shape.
Robert and Carol Goldworm on their wedding day (Mrs. Gertrude Goldworm is the woman in the
beautiful black hat on the left)
Marge: Could you give us a description of your father through your eyes?
Susan: My father travelled extensively to Europe (Milan). I do remember when he was home – sketching and drawing for him and playing backgammon. He was a meticulous man. He was very aware of his surroundings and the details of his persona. I remember his large walk in closet where each item of clothing had its place and was folded just so. Every detail mattered, his socks would coordinate to the paisley in his handkerchief, which matched his tie. (My father ALWAYS carried a handkerchief) I think he was one of the first “metro” men. His nickname to his close friends was Loomie. He loved tennis and played daily.
Marge: What pushed your father to go to Milan and seek out specialists for certain types of finishing techniques?
Susan: My father was a perfectionist, requiring superior quality in all that surrounded him and therefore what he produced. This is why he traveled to Milan. He based the production on Italian hand-fashioning, a process which builds shape into the garment and tailors seams and edges. Seams were hand rolled and button holes hand finished. There were no machines available in the United States to produce the garments of quality my father required. My father’s sister Beverly soon joined the business (my Aunt Pop-Pop) and things really started to advance.
Robert Goldworm at his desk (the series of pictures all in a row on the wall are Susan, her brother’s picture is
on the desk and his wife, Carol’s picture next to Susan’s series of pictures (Carol was a model, although not for
the Goldworm line).
Robert Goldworm, his sister, Beverly Tuttman and Ruby Lettman in the New York Showroom
Marge: Where did your father get his ideas for the patterns that were used?
Susan: Growing up I was surrounded by all kinds of art. There were stacks and stacks of “coffee table” books and pictures and sculptures lined the walls and nooks of our home. A great deal of my fathers designs were influenced by, the artists Mondrian, Van Gogh, Jasper Johns, Paul Klee, and Picasso to name a few. He was also influenced by the world around him, for example, examining a stone wall for the patterns that lay inside its design. I think he viewed the world as a painting (through an artist’s eye) looking for beautiful intricate patterns it beholds. He would then translate these patterns to his garments. He loved color and bold prints which complemented the simplicity of the style and the tailoring of the knits. This combination created a loyal customer base, and his dresses were showcased at many of the top retail stores.
Bobble Kiss Samphire Tweed bag from the Cloth Magpie line by Sam Cross, currently available at My Green Lipstick
Originally from a fine art background, Sam Cross began designing handbags in 1995, creating collections of sculptural and decorative bags which were sold through high end retailers in Cambridge, London, New York and Hong Kong and appeared in many of the well known glossies including Marie Claire, Vogue and Elle.
In 2001 Cross launched “Mieow” a Cambridge boutique selling clothes by young British designers. Following this venture she took a career break to raise a family.
In early 2009, with 3 children in tow and a loft full of vintage fabrics, Cross decided to return to handbag design and launched Cloth Magpie.
Now coming up to its second season, the Cloth Magpie range of handbags comprises of a number of stylish shapes produced in a wide variety of vintage prints.
The very nature of the materials and their limited availability means that only a small number of each shape/fabric combination will be made, hence the limited edition status assigned to each bag. Through Cloth Magpie, Sam Cross aims to turn some of the fabulous vintage textiles that she has lovingly collected over the years into beautiful and functional objects of desire – in a sense, to breathe new life into them.
For more information on Cloth Magpie visit http://samcross.co.uk/.
Follow Sam Cross on Twitter @samcrossuk.
Elaine Starkman Suit from Love Train Vintage
Eighteen months ago I happened upon a 1960s suit made by Elaine Starkman in a location not far from my home in Dingmans Ferry, Pennsylvania. What attracted me to the suit was the fact that Ms. Starkman had her boutique on Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village, NY. My dad had grown up in the Italian section of Greenwich village. Here was something from my dad’s old neighborhood. I bought the suit and brought it home.
Over the next six months I researched Elaine Starkman. I found out on the internet that Mary Travers of Peter, Paul and Mary fame had worked at Ms. Starkman’s boutique in the village. Ms. Starkman also made Mary Traver’s wedding dress when she married for the first time. I also turned up information that Ms. Starkman was one of the first art gallery owners in Soho. But there the trail ended.
Fast forward six months. Every so often I would type in the name Elaine Starkman and do a Google search. However, this time something turned up. It was an auction for a pair of custom made leather sandals from back in the 1960s. Evidently Ms. Starkman was also known for her beautiful leather work. Several weeks later I again Googled Ms. Starkman’s name and found an auction of jewelry that Ms. Starkman had made. Slowly I was finding out that Ms. Starkman was quite the artist in many mediums.
The last thing I found out about Ms. Starkman from a friend who told me that Ms. Starkman had moved her business in the mid 1960s out of the village and up to Lexington (between 64th and 65th Streets) in 1966 or so because most of her client base lived in that vicinity. Leather goods were a Starkman specialty.
So two days ago I received an email from a young lady. She said she had seen my listing for my Elaine Starkman suit and wondered if I had anymore information available on Ms. Starkman.
I answered her email and told her that everything I knew was in the listing for the suit and then I asked her what her interest in Ms. Starkman was.
She told me that in the late 70s her grandmother had gone to New York and had an art show at Ms. Starkman’s gallery and that to this day they are still friends and live in the same retirement home. Since Ms. Starkman isn’t able to talk to her about times past, she was trying to find out more about her grandmother’s friend because she seemed like such an interesting person.
And so a piece of vintage clothing that I purchased because of personal sentiment led to me connecting with someone across the country. This person was looking for information to learn more about her grandmother’s friend’s life in the past. Two people, one suit, one degree of separation. What a very small world we live in. And all it took was this suit.
DresStory readers get all the best deals!
Receive FREE SHIPPING till January 1st, 2010, if you shop with figure8studio and drop them an e-mail with the subject DresStory.
Love Train Vintage is offering 10% off everything in their Etsy store, now through December 21st.
Check back often so you don’t miss the bargain of a lifetime on that “must-have” vintage piece.
Sensational 40s Black Velvet & Cascade Coq Feather Hat offered on ebay by Fixed.Gear.Nation
By: Genevieve Marek of Fixed.Gear.Nation
La Modiste…a shadowy figure that played the dangerous double game: A spy in the service of King George, an espionage agent in the employ of The Directory…and the young Corsican General Napoleone Buonaparte’s secret lover. Information, documents, letters: small, encoded, tucked into special compartments in the ethereal ladies hats she created in her obscure workshop deep in crowded Paris, embedded in the linings of gentleman’s lacy cocked hats, smuggled across the uneasy waters of the Channel with their tiny, dangerous burdens.
Oh, but dear god, tonight it was so delicate…. Her hands worked feverishly, dexterously as she replaced the cockade on Buonaparte’s hat which had been shot nearly to pieces in the battle at Arcole…so terribly delicate! He was so impatient, so hot in his advances…and there was so very little time. As she replaced the old shattered decoration with the new, she heard him pacing the floor in her outer room with his usual febrile restlessness – the man could never be still! Waiting for her to be done…waiting for her…
“Basta! Enough!” He finally roared, “I can wait no longer…you make my blood burn…!”
There! A slight of hand and the old cockade was replaced by the new…but the old was nearly destroyed – damn that servant of Buonaparte for not getting to it quickly enough! She heard Napoleone’s sword and sword belt clatter carelessly upon the floor; her hands trembled as she unwound the slim strips of cloth, cloth almost gossamer…ah…the secret coded plans for the French invasion of England contained within were intact, miraculously intact (she smiled)…mon Dieu…they would use balloons…balloons? Well, well…no time for amused speculation. La Modiste looked quickly about herself – there it was – a cap of the richest black velvet, lustrous and lush to the touch, with its cascade of black shimmering coq feathers, its single roundel of jewels sparking…beautiful and wicked – and perfect. Within its twining black velvet embellishment she buried her little, lethal burden…a few stitches…so! She had barely wrapped it in the box addressed to Madam Y, her fellow agent who would see it onto the boat to England by dawn, when Buonaparte invaded the room with his customary force.
“Ah…delightful to see you my dear.” La Modiste smiled, her heart bounding so hard she was sure it could be heard in the next street. She indicated his newly dressed hat. “It is ready.”
“Yes, thank you, grazie.” Then Buonaparte jabbed a finger at the box Modiste was tying up, its onyx black jewel of a hat with its little concealed treasure nestled inside. “You are not done yet?”
“My dear, will you be so very impatient?” She winked and called for her maid. “I shouldn’t wish to leave anything undone in my workshop – I do so dislike it when we are…interrupted.”
“Bah! Keeping me waiting for female trumpery!” He snatched the box out of her hands and thrust it at the newly arrived maid. “Here – go, young woman, and deliver this to wherever it is to be delivered to, and do not come back until your mistress bids you.”
With a mixture of relief and sadness La Modiste saw the little box disappear, her maid pattering off as fast as she could to get away from that crazy Corsican general. She would miss very much that stunning, wicked hat, black as the deepest night, its feathers that brushed against her cheeks sensuously; and then remembered and began to smile: Balloons…he would invade England with balloons…
Tiffany Blue Rhinestone 60's Dress Offered on Etsy by Hipandvintage
by: Tressie Schindele of Funkoma Vintage
It was the prism in the window of Dory’s Vee Dub van…his hippie van….that first put the spark of a rainbow in her thoughts. She loved the way the tiny dots scampering over her face, her arms, her lap and into her eyes that made her lashes flutter.
She found herself smiling and then laughing..out loud….as her eyes darted around the dashboard, to the steering wheel, to Dory’s slim muscular arms, to the window, to the headliner……as she flung her head backwards and tried to follow the business of the tiny little rainbows as they buzzed like bees around the van.
Her mother told her that if she was going to go to the Honor Society Awards dinner she really ought to choose a dress that was as special as she was. Well, that was her mother’s opinion. She knew she was smart, but she also knew she wasn’t special. The girls who were special had long blonde hair and were perky.
With long dark hair and olive skin, she was just ordinary. She was just smart. But just an ordinary girl…who was headed to law school that is for sure. And the One thousand dollar scholarship to the State University was step number one. No, step number one was to go downtown and choose a dress for an ordinary girl who was about to get the highest award for having a big brain, and the money plus the scholarship that went with it, that the state Honor Society had ever bestowed on anyone…boy or girl, plain or remarkable.
Dory pulled the van into the parking lot and she jumped out and gently slammed the door just as he had asked her to do. He was such a good sport..driving her downtown when she knew perfectly well he had plans this afternoon of running out to the beach with his surfboard. That was Dory, a good sport, but not the kind of guy who might like a girl like her. Plain. Smart. And sometimes a bit sassy. Dory and the crowd he hung out with was loud, rich, pretty, blond, tan and would attend college or not because the rich families of the beach crowd could pay for that little expense without a scholarship.
The most darling boutique in town always smelled like a rose garden inside where the air was cool but not cold like stores out at the mall. And it was nothing like the stores at the mall. This was a vintage clothing boutique. The ladies who worked there were of all ages and they wore cat eye glasses and swirled their hair up into high curly hairdos. Sometimes she would pop inside just to go open the door of an enormous armoire to hear it creak.
Inside the shop on the racks were dozens of lovely things. All of them were older than 25 years old….much older than she! There were satin, and velvet, and moire, and trimmed with lace, and embroidery, and had ruffles and ruches and twirly-worthy skirts.
What she wanted wasn’t a full skirt with 2 crinolines, although she thought that was a lovely look for some girls. She didn’t want ruffles or lace or velvet, really. What she wanted was a fitted dress with a sprinkling of rhinestones that sparkled like a beehive of buzzing rainbows. She waited for Dory to follow her in as he held the door for her, which was and wasn’t a surprise.
Pink, yellow, florals, black, green, stripes, plaids, white, and red in a swirl around the store…but she didn’t see what she wanted. She couldn’t even describe what she wanted except to describe what she didn’t want!
Then, inside a white cabinet, that held rustly satin dresses in the colors of Jordan almonds she spied the color of her dreams….Tiffany blue! The perfect color that everyone loves and looks good with every complexion. It was sleek rather than full. It was tailored rather than fussy. And the bodice featured a criss cross design of the sparkliest rhinestones, just as she wished. She clutched it and after a few minutes in the pink and white dressing room, and then stepping out on to the sales floor under the cool floodlights……it happened! Glancing over at herself in the long full length mirror she saw a rainbow of dancing and skittering and bustling rhinestone dots tickling her neck and bouncing off the dresses on the racks and tapping on Dory’s smiling face!
His tanned face was lit from the inside and his smile brightened as he delicately gazed at her. She locked her eyes on his. This was the perfect dress for a brainy girl who plainly was in love with her future, her blossoming life and the vintage dress that smartly projected the prism that she was.
